Replacement Lamp Holder for Cordless Soldering Irons: Model #W00176-100
We got a call today about the lamp holder for the cordless rechargeable soldering irons (Quick Charge #7700/#7740, “60” Pro Charge #7800/#7840 and Power Pro #7904/#7944). We do sell replacement parts including the lamp hold and bayonet bulb. If you need a lamp holder, click here to contact us. If you need a replacement bulb, click here to order online.
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The customer, John, was looking for a replacement lamp socket. Iso-Tip no longer carry the replacement lamp socket, but he found a really good version of it at Radio Shack. The Radio Shack version has an isolated mounting tab so it can even be screwed to the housing to secure it better.
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We have not tested it here yet so standard legalease / common sense applies – use at your own risk.
Have a question about replacement parts for your iron? Contact Us Here!
I really like the aspect of making repairs to my electronic units myself and by you making parts available it makes it so much easier. More and more companies are so proprietary, it’s almost impossible to get parts to do the repairs. Thanks for making ISO-Tip a better tool company.
Hi Fayette!
Thank YOU for the compliment! It absolutely made my morning. That said, Steve (the owner of Iso-Tip) firmly believes that if you have the ability to repair the tools yourself, then the very least we can do is sell you the necessary parts. This philosophy might have something to do with his background in engineering and appreciation of open platform creativity, but that's just my own theory.
Happy soldering!
Sara
Is there a way to send in a unit for repair so that it would be a lot cheaper than buying a new one.
Hi Greg!
Yes, there is a way to send in a unit for repair. Here’s how – http://www.iso-tip.com/rma/
Tools out of warranty will be repaired at our standard repair charge of $24.95 (plus shipping costs) or replaced at list price (plus shipping costs).
Have more questions? Feel free to check out our customer service page or email info@iso-tip.com.
as for the switch issue mentioned earlier i polish the contacts with emery cloth then run a strip of paper between them a few times.i then soak another strip in deoxit dp5 and repeat.seems that corrosive leaks from old nicads are the biggest issue.went to some 4500mah nimh rc race cells in mine.longer run time.
some of the units i have date bck to the late 60’s-early 70’s.
and they get used every day.
Do you have the black switch part that the rechargeable fit into at the top?
Yep – this is the thermostat that insures the battery doesn’t overcharge. We only sell these by phone as it is a little more difficult to replace then some of the other parts.
In the final analysis, it is the Mr. Fix-its, like some of us, that hold the world together. Just for kicks, the next time you watch Star-Trek, turn your attention to the Mr. Fix-it among the characters. You may see things in a different light. We are a very special and gifted group.
The battery for the Model 7700 is obviously dead because plugging the Iso Tip into the Quick Charge unit does cause the light in the 7700 to light when the Use/Lock button is pressed. However, I am wondering how the internal NiCad battery can be replaced. After a second look (the first look seemed to be a soldered connection) I am asking what is the size of the hexagonal shaped bolt that is the positive terminal connector? And, (because the negative terminal is hidden very well by the orange wire support) how is it possible to re-connect the negative terminal?
I suppose all of the above would be obvious if I removed the battery but that doesn’t seem to be a simple thing to do until I better understand the mechanical issues.
Thanks for your help.
John Marthens/NU6A
On the current model 7700 the battery has two welded tabs for mounting and circuit connection. Both tabs are just held in place with screws. So, to replace the battery, remove the two screws and move the wire gently out of the way. Swap batteries and reinstall the screws and you should be all set.
need replacement bulbs, have both the bayonet and the screw type (222 style). any others I have tried use too much current. Help.
Hey Randy,
Not sure if you got your bulbs. Sorry for the late reply on our end. We offer both the bayonet and the screw type bulbs. Just give us a call and we can get a couple to you if needed.
Regarding the batteries – The battery does get hot or warm it should be about 95°F to 120°F depending on the charge state of the battery. That said once charged it should no longer be anything but warm. If it continues to be hot something is drawing. You also mentioned the charging base is getting hot. That should not be the case. If you would like me to take a look at it we rebuild them all the time. Let me know and I will issue you an RMA so I can track it when it gets here. Our phone number is 715-831-6353.
p.s. #2—the batteries are getting hot in the charger (7700) are they on the way out ? Thanks.
I’d like to see you make a tip holder, Should be a easy thing to do. If I had a printer I’d make one myself needs to hold about 10 tips.
Awesome suggestion Paul, we will pass that information on to our engineers to see if there is something that they can do to help!
Hi. Do you have a e10 bulb to LED replacement recommendation for an old Wahl Iso-Fix 7700. Any advice appreciated.Thanks
At this time we do not have an LED replacement, we are still using the incandescent bulbs. However, we are in the R&D phase of a new iron and with this upgrade we are looking at using an LED bulb.
Can you tell me why you use a #222 lamp with a bayonet base when the standard for the 222 is a screw base? I need a new bulb for my new 8000 after only about 45 minutes of use. Since the lithium battery is 3.6v going to this 2.25 volt lamp it would make sense that it would burn out quickly unless there is a dropping resistor. 45 minutes of use for a lamp seems very short for an iron that I just bought (and already had to send it in immediately to be rebuilt). Why wasn’t an LED bulb used instead of the 222?
lifepo4 is nominal 3.2v
less than 3v at the demand of the tip.if you run it without the tip its above the design voltage.
such bulbs have a life of only a few hours at design voltage.
and the bayonet base wont work loose like e10 screw.
as for led it needs to be either a low vf bin or a boost type.
lowest vf white i have seen readily purchasable is around 2.7v
without a boost driver(joule thief) you quickly get below vf.